Easan ChoineasGlen Golly • Waterfall
Easan Choineas is a remote and spectacular waterfall located in Glen Golly, one of the most isolated and pristine glens in the far northwest Highlands of Scotland. The waterfall is formed by the Glen Golly River, which drains the wild and rugged landscape of this sparsely populated region in Sutherland. The name "Easan Choineas" derives from Gaelic, with "easan" meaning waterfall, though the precise meaning of "Choineas" is somewhat obscure in modern usage. This waterfall represents one of the hidden gems of the Scottish Highlands, seldom visited due to its extreme remoteness and the challenging terrain that surrounds it.
The waterfall itself is a dramatic feature where the Glen Golly River plunges down a steep rocky face carved through ancient metamorphic rocks that characterize much of this part of the Northwest Highlands. The underlying geology consists primarily of Lewisian gneiss, some of the oldest rock formations in Britain, dating back nearly three billion years. These ancient rocks have been sculpted by countless millennia of erosion, glaciation, and weathering, creating the dramatic landscapes that define this region. The waterfall's character varies significantly with seasonal rainfall, with spring snowmelt and autumn storms transforming it from a modest cascade during dry summer months into a thundering torrent that sends spray high into the air.
Glen Golly itself is a remarkable wilderness area, accessed from the east via Loch More or from the west via the Reay Forest Estate. The glen is characterized by its U-shaped glacial profile, steep-sided mountains, and a complete absence of roads or significant human settlement. The landscape surrounding Easan Choineas is one of heather moorland, rocky outcrops, and scattered lochans, with the higher peaks often retaining snow patches well into summer. The river that feeds the waterfall gathers water from an extensive catchment area encompassing some of the wildest terrain in Scotland, including slopes of mountains such as Meall Horn and other peaks in the surrounding ranges.
The wildlife in this remote glen is typical of the Scottish Highlands, with red deer being the most commonly observed large mammal. Golden eagles and other raptors patrol the skies above the glen, taking advantage of the updrafts created by the steep valley sides. The river system supports populations of brown trout, and in the lower reaches, salmon and sea trout make their way upstream during spawning season. The surrounding moorland provides habitat for red grouse, ptarmigan at higher elevations, and various wading birds. In spring and summer, the area comes alive with the calls of curlews, golden plovers, and meadow pipits, while ring ouzels may be spotted on the rocky slopes near the waterfall.
Access to Easan Choineas represents a serious undertaking suitable only for experienced hillwalkers with excellent navigation skills and appropriate equipment. The waterfall lies several miles from the nearest vehicular access point, requiring a long walk through pathless terrain or along rough stalkers' paths. Most visitors approach from the east, parking near the head of Loch More and following the course of the Glen Golly River upstream. This route involves crossing difficult ground with no maintained paths for much of the distance, and the area is prone to sudden weather changes typical of the Northwest Highlands. The grid reference NC409446 places the waterfall in the heart of this wilderness, far from any habitation or easy rescue access.
The isolation of Glen Golly and Easan Choineas means that these features have remained largely outside the realm of recorded history and popular folklore, unlike more accessible Highland waterfalls. The area was historically used for deer stalking and may have seen limited summer grazing, but the harsh climate and poor soils prevented permanent settlement even during the Highland Clearances era when many glens were emptied of their populations. The remoteness that once made this area economically marginal now contributes to its value as wilderness, offering visitors who make the demanding journey a genuine sense of solitude and connection with untamed nature that is increasingly rare even in the Scottish Highlands.
For those planning to visit Easan Choineas, careful preparation is essential. The journey should not be attempted in poor weather or by those lacking mountain experience. There are no facilities of any kind in Glen Golly, and mobile phone coverage is non-existent throughout most of the area. Visitors should carry appropriate maps, compass, and ideally GPS navigation, along with emergency supplies, as assistance in case of accident or injury could take many hours to arrive. The best conditions for visiting are typically between late spring and early autumn, though even in summer the weather can be challenging and midges can be ferocious during calm conditions.