Things to do in Howgill Fells

Black Force is a waterfall located on Little Ulgill Beck in the Howgill Fells of Cumbria, England, at OS grid reference SD645991. The Howgill Fells form a distinctive range of smooth, rounded hills situated between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, characterized by their grassy slopes and relative lack of crags compared to their more famous neighbors. Black Force represents one of several waterfalls scattered throughout these fells, where becks descend from the high moorland through steep-sided valleys known locally as gills. The waterfall takes its name from the dark appearance of the rocks over which the water flows, a common feature in Pennine streams where peat-stained water cascades over darker stone formations. Little Ulgill Beck is a tributary stream that drains the western slopes of the Howgill Fells, gathering water from the high ground before making its descent through a narrow gill. The beck's catchment area consists of rough grazing land and moorland typical of these fells, with vegetation dominated by mat grass, purple moor grass, and patches of heather. The stream flows year-round, though its volume varies considerably with rainfall and seasonal conditions. During periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, the beck can transform from a modest trickle into a powerful torrent, dramatically altering the character of Black Force and making the surrounding ground treacherous. The geology of the Howgill Fells is dominated by Silurian rocks of the Windermere Supergroup, primarily composed of mudstones, siltstones, and sandstones laid down in ancient marine environments some 420 million years ago. These sedimentary rocks have been folded and compressed over geological time, creating the distinctive dome-shaped topography of the fells. Black Force flows over these bedded rocks, with the waterfall likely formed where harder bands of rock resist erosion more effectively than the softer layers above and below. The dark coloration that gives the fall its name may result from iron staining, organic matter accumulation, or the naturally darker hue of certain rock layers exposed in the gill. The Howgill Fells have a long history of pastoral farming, with sheep grazing remaining the primary land use to this day. The fell landscape has been shaped by centuries of human activity, though it retains a wilder character than many parts of upland Britain. The network of becks and gills, including Little Ulgill Beck, would have been important water sources for scattered farmsteads and provided power for small-scale industrial activities in earlier times. The fells were extensively walked by notable fell-wanderer Alfred Wainwright, who devoted a separate pictorial guide to the Howgill Fells, praising their smooth contours and relative solitude compared to the busier Lake District peaks. The landscape surrounding Black Force is typical of the Howgill Fells' characteristic terrain, with steep-sided valleys cutting into rounded summit ridges. The vegetation comprises rough grassland with areas of bracken on the lower slopes, while the higher ground supports acidic grassland and moorland plant communities. Birdlife in the area includes species such as skylarks, meadow pipits, wheatears, and ravens, while the remote nature of the fells provides habitat for ground-nesting birds. The becks support limited aquatic life due to their acidic, peaty waters and steep gradients, though invertebrate communities exist in quieter pools and slower sections. Access to Black Force requires a walk into the Howgill Fells, as there are no roads penetrating the heart of this fell range. The nearest approach by car would typically be from the A685 road that runs along the western edge of the fells between Kendal and Kirkby Stephen, or from Sedbergh to the south. Parking might be found at informal layby locations or in Sedbergh itself, from where various footpaths lead into the fells. The terrain is pathless in many areas, requiring good navigation skills, appropriate footwear, and awareness of weather conditions, as these fells are exposed to the elements and can be shrouded in mist even when surrounding lower ground is clear. The approach to Black Force would likely involve following Little Ulgill Beck upstream from lower ground, or descending to the gill from the fell tops. The walking is generally on open access land, allowing freedom to roam, but the ground can be wet, tussocky, and challenging underfoot, particularly in the vicinity of the beck where the terrain steepens. There are no waymarked trails to this specific waterfall, and visitors should be prepared for genuine fell walking conditions. The nearest settlements offering facilities such as shops, accommodation, and cafes would be Sedbergh, a small market town known as the "book town" of England, and the villages along the Lune Valley to the west. The Howgill Fells as a whole remain relatively quiet compared to the Lake District, attracting those who appreciate solitude and wilder walking conditions. Black Force and similar features within these fells are destinations primarily for dedicated walkers and waterfall enthusiasts willing to navigate pathless terrain. The relative obscurity of such locations means they retain an unspoiled character, with the landscape appearing much as it would have for centuries. The fells' smooth profiles were formed during the last Ice Age when glaciers smoothed the underlying rock, creating the flowing lines that distinguish them from the craggier Lake District fells to the west.