Eas Coire nan ChoireKinlochhourn • Waterfall
Eas Coire nan Choire is a remote and dramatic waterfall located in one of Scotland's most isolated and spectacular glens, situated near Kinlochhourn in the western Highlands. The falls are formed by the Allt Coire nan Chnamh, a mountain stream that descends from the high corries of the surrounding peaks in this wild and relatively unfrequented landscape. The waterfall itself consists of a series of cascades that tumble down a steep rocky face, with the water gathering momentum as it plunges through narrow channels carved into the ancient bedrock. The total height of the falls is substantial, though precise measurements are difficult given the remote nature of the location and the multiple tiers over which the water descends. During periods of high rainfall, which are frequent in this part of Scotland, the falls become particularly impressive, with white water thundering down the cliff face and spray rising into the air, creating rainbows on sunny days.
The Allt Coire nan Chnamh has its source high in the mountains that form the dramatic backdrop to Loch Hourn, one of Scotland's deepest and most fjord-like sea lochs. The name "Coire nan Chnamh" translates from Scottish Gaelic as "Corrie of the Bones," a evocative name that may reference either the skeletal appearance of the bare rock faces in the corrie or perhaps some long-forgotten incident or legend. The geology of this area is dominated by ancient Precambrian rocks, including Moine schists and gneisses that were formed over 800 million years ago and subsequently metamorphosed during mountain-building events. These hard, crystalline rocks have been sculpted by glacial action during successive ice ages, creating the U-shaped valleys, hanging corries, and steep cliffs that characterize this landscape. The waterfall itself cascades over these resistant metamorphic rocks, which have been polished and worn by millennia of flowing water.
The landscape surrounding Eas Coire nan Choire is quintessentially Highland in character, with steep-sided mountains rising directly from the shores of Loch Hourn and creating a sense of enclosure and grandeur. Kinlochhourn, at the head of the loch, is one of the most remote communities in mainland Scotland, accessible only by a narrow, winding single-track road that threads through dramatic mountain scenery. The area is characterized by a mix of bare rock, heather moorland, scattered native woodland, and areas of rough grassland. The climate is heavily influenced by the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, with high rainfall throughout the year contributing to the numerous waterfalls and streams that cascade down from the mountains into the loch below. The vegetation reflects this wet, oceanic climate, with mosses, ferns, and lichens thriving in the humid conditions near the waterfall.
Wildlife in this remote corner of Scotland is varied and includes many species typical of the western Highlands. Red deer are common in the surrounding hills and glens, and visitors may observe them grazing on the lower slopes or silhouetted against the skyline on the ridges above. The area supports populations of mountain hares, which turn white in winter, and smaller mammals such as field voles and shrews provide prey for predators including foxes and stoats. Birdlife is diverse, with golden eagles and white-tailed sea eagles both present in the wider area, though sightings require patience and luck. More commonly observed are ravens, with their distinctive croaking calls echoing off the cliff faces, and buzzards soaring on the updrafts. The streams and burns support dippers and grey wagtails, while the moorland areas provide habitat for red grouse, meadow pipits, and skylarks. In spring and summer, wheatears and ring ouzels arrive from their winter quarters to breed among the rocky slopes.
Access to Eas Coire nan Choire requires a significant commitment, as this is genuinely remote territory far from any major population centers. The journey to Kinlochhourn itself is an adventure, with the final section of road from the A87 near Cluanie being particularly narrow and challenging, though the scenery is spectacular throughout. From Kinlochhourn, reaching the waterfall requires hillwalking across pathless terrain, and visitors should be properly equipped with appropriate footwear, waterproof clothing, map, compass, and the skills to navigate in mountain conditions. The ground can be very rough and boggy in places, and the lack of established paths means that progress can be slow. Weather conditions can change rapidly in these mountains, and what begins as a pleasant day can quickly deteriorate into mist, rain, or even snow on the higher ground, even in summer months. Those venturing into this area should inform someone of their plans and expected return time.
The remoteness of Eas Coire nan Choire is part of its appeal for those seeking genuine wilderness experiences in Scotland. Unlike more accessible and popular waterfalls that may attract large numbers of visitors, this cascade remains largely unknown and unvisited except by serious hillwalkers and mountaineers exploring this corner of the Highlands. The sense of solitude and the feeling of being in truly wild country is profound, with the nearest habitation sparse and the infrastructure minimal. This remoteness also means that the waterfall and its surroundings remain in a largely natural state, unaffected by the management and visitor facilities that characterize more popular attractions. For those willing to make the effort to reach it, Eas Coire nan Choire offers a glimpse of Highland Scotland as it has been for millennia, where the forces of water, rock, and weather continue their eternal dialogue without human interference.