Scenic Place in County Cork

Cobh, pronounced Cove, is a Victorian seaside town on Great Island in Cork Harbour whose combination of the extraordinary cathedral of St Colman dominating the town from the hillside above, the colourful terraces of Georgian and Victorian houses rising in tiers from the waterfront and the profound historical associations with Irish emigration and the Titanic make it one of the most emotionally resonant and most visually distinctive harbour towns in Ireland. The town was for over a century the principal point of departure for the millions of Irish who emigrated to America, Australia and elsewhere, and its identity is inseparable from the experience of departure and loss. The Queenstown Story in the old railway station provides one of the most moving and most comprehensive accounts of the Irish emigration experience available anywhere, drawing on the stories of those who left from this harbour during the Famine emigrations of the 1840s, the mass emigrations of the late nineteenth century and the twentieth-century departures to tell the story of what emigration meant for the individuals and the communities who experienced it. Cobh was the last port of call of the RMS Titanic in April 1912 and the final port of departure for 123 passengers who did not survive. The Cathedral of St Colman, one of the finest and most ambitious examples of Gothic Revival architecture in Ireland, dominates the town from its elevated position and provides a backdrop to the harbour that is recognisable across a wide area of Cork Harbour. The 49-bell carillon in the cathedral tower is the largest in Ireland and its regular performances provide an unusual musical soundtrack to the town.

Mizen Head marks the southwesternmost point of mainland Ireland and has been the first or last piece of Ireland seen by generations of travellers crossing the Atlantic. The headland reaches into the Atlantic Ocean from the far end of the Mizen Peninsula in west County Cork, a position that has made it both a navigational landmark of crucial importance and one of the most dramatically beautiful coastal locations in Ireland. The cliffs at Mizen Head drop to the sea from heights of over 45 metres, the dark red sandstone faces pounded by Atlantic swells that have been building across thousands of kilometres of open ocean. The power and scale of the waves here during winter storms is genuinely astonishing, and even on calmer summer days the surge and suck of the water through the sea caves and gullies below the cliffs creates a sound of impressive elemental force. The rugged coastal scenery here is characteristic of the west Cork coast at its most dramatic. The lighthouse station at Mizen Head was established in 1910 and the signal station, originally built to house fog horns and signalling equipment, has been converted into a visitor centre that tells the story of maritime navigation in this treacherous corner of the Irish coast. A dramatic pedestrian suspension bridge spanning the gorge that separates the lighthouse rock from the mainland allows visitors to cross to the lighthouse and signal station, providing a vantage point from which the full drama of the Atlantic coast can be appreciated. The visitor centre contains exhibits about the history of the lighthouse service, the geology of the headland and the wildlife of the surrounding waters. Chough, a red-billed member of the crow family now rare in Ireland, can often be seen along the clifftops, and seabirds including gannets, razorbills and guillemots use the cliffs during the breeding season. Grey seals are regularly spotted in the coves below. Mizen Head is the most westerly point on the Wild Atlantic Way, the long-distance touring route that follows the Irish Atlantic coast from Donegal to Cork. Its location at the extreme southwest of Ireland and the clarity of light that characterises the far west make it a destination that rewards photography at almost any time of year.

Glengarriff Nature Reserve lies on the Beara Peninsula in County Cork and protects one of Ireland's finest examples of ancient Atlantic oak woodland. Covering approximately 300 hectares, the reserve sits within a sheltered valley where a mild maritime climate, warmed by the Gulf Stream, creates conditions rarely found elsewhere in Ireland. The result is a landscape of astonishing lushness, where ancient sessile oaks rise from the valley floor draped in thick cushions of moss, fern and lichen. The woodland here is considered second only to the Killarney oakwoods in ecological importance and forms part of the larger Glengarriff Harbour and Woodlands Special Area of Conservation. The underlying rock is Old Red Sandstone dating back around 350 million years to the Devonian period, and you can still see ice-smoothed surfaces where glaciers once ground across the valley during the last Ice Age. The streams and river corridors that thread through the reserve are home to one of Ireland's rarest and most remarkable animals: the Freshwater Pearl Mussel, a species that can live for over 120 years and is now critically endangered across Europe. Botanists love Glengarriff for its so-called Hiberno-Lusitanian plant species, rare plants whose distribution is otherwise limited to southwest Ireland and the Iberian Peninsula. These include St Patrick's Cabbage and species of saxifrage that thrive only in these uniquely moist, temperate conditions. Beneath the oak canopy you will also find holly, birch and the striking Strawberry Tree, whose red autumn fruits can be spotted near the higher trails. The reserve was originally part of the Bantry Estate and passed to the Irish state in 1955 for forestry purposes. Extensive conifer planting followed, but in 1991 the area was redesignated a Nature Reserve and placed under the management of the National Parks and Wildlife Service, which has since worked to restore the native woodland by clearing non-native species and allowing natural regeneration. Several walking trails suit different abilities. The gentle River Walk follows the Glengarriff River through the heart of the woodland, while the steeper Lady Bantry's Lookout trail rewards the effort with panoramic views across Bantry Bay, Garinish Island and the Caha Mountains. The Esknamucky Walk offers a shorter loop with mountain vistas, and the Waterfall Trail leads to a cascade on the Canrooska River that is especially dramatic after rain. Entry to the reserve is completely free, and the site is accessible year-round. There is a car park at the entrance, along with picnic areas and information boards. While there are no toilet facilities on site, the nearby village of Glengarriff is just one kilometre away and has all the amenities you would expect from a popular West Cork destination. Glengarriff Nature Reserve is also a perfect base for exploring the wider Beara Peninsula, with ferry trips to the famous Italian gardens of Garinish Island departing from the village harbour throughout the visitor season.

Baltimore is a small fishing village and sailing centre on the southwestern tip of County Cork, positioned at the entrance to Roaringwater Bay with views across to the Sherkin Island, Cape Clear Island and the Fastnet Rock lighthouse on the horizon beyond. It is a place of considerable maritime character and atmospheric beauty, its compact harbour, colourful houses and fishing boats reflecting a way of life shaped by the sea across many centuries of occupation in one of the most dramatically indented and island-scattered coastlines in Ireland. The village has a history that extends far beyond its current quiet character might suggest. In 1631 Baltimore was the site of one of the most extraordinary events in Irish coastal history, when Algerian corsairs led by the Dutch renegade pirate Jan Janszoon landed in the night, ransacked the village and carried approximately a hundred men, women and children back to North Africa as slaves. The Baltimore Captives, as they became known, were the subject of the poet Thomas Davis's famous ballad, and most of the captives never returned to Ireland. The attack was devastating enough to effectively depopulate the village for a generation, and the memory of it has never entirely faded from the local consciousness. The Sherkin Island ferry runs from Baltimore harbour several times daily, making it easy to visit the island with its ruined Franciscan friary, sandy beaches and relaxed island community. The ferry to Cape Clear Island, the most southerly inhabited island in Ireland, provides access to an Irish-speaking community with a long seafaring tradition and one of the best seabird observation stations in Ireland at the island's southern tip. The Fastnet Lighthouse, visible from the Cape Clear coast, is one of the most famous lighthouses in the world as the turning mark of the Fastnet Race, the classic offshore sailing race. Baltimore has developed a reputation for excellent local seafood, and the combination of fresh fish from the harbour, island hopping and coastal walking along the Mizen Peninsula makes it one of the most rewarding small coastal destinations in the southwest of Ireland.

Cape Clear Island, known in Irish as Oileán Chléire, is the most southerly inhabited island in Ireland, a small and dramatically scenic island off the southwest Cork coast accessible by ferry from Baltimore and Schull that combines one of the most important bird observatories in Britain and Ireland with the character of a Gaeltacht island community maintaining Irish as its everyday language. The combination of the extraordinary bird migration that makes Cape Clear one of the best seabird and migration watching sites in the British Isles, the island landscape and the authentic Irish-speaking community creates a destination of exceptional distinctiveness. The Cape Clear Bird Observatory has operated continuously since 1959 and the island's position at the extreme southwestern tip of Ireland makes it one of the most important landfall points for migrating birds crossing the Atlantic from North America and for European migrants moving along the Atlantic coast. The autumn seabird passage off the south point of the island, when shearwaters, petrels, skuas and other oceanic birds move in large numbers past the headland, is one of the most exciting and most sought-after wildlife watching events in Ireland. The island supports a small permanent population of Irish speakers, the culture of the Gaeltacht community including traditional music, storytelling and a summer language school that brings students from across Ireland to study Irish in its natural spoken environment. The three-sided harbour at North Harbour, the dramatic sea cliffs on the south and west coasts and the wild landscape of the island interior provide an island experience of authentic and rewarding character.