Waterfall in Howgill Fells

Black Force is a waterfall located on Little Ulgill Beck in the Howgill Fells of Cumbria, England, at OS grid reference SD645991. The Howgill Fells form a distinctive range of smooth, rounded hills situated between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, characterized by their grassy slopes and relative lack of crags compared to their more famous neighbors. Black Force represents one of several waterfalls scattered throughout these fells, where becks descend from the high moorland through steep-sided valleys known locally as gills. The waterfall takes its name from the dark appearance of the rocks over which the water flows, a common feature in Pennine streams where peat-stained water cascades over darker stone formations. Little Ulgill Beck is a tributary stream that drains the western slopes of the Howgill Fells, gathering water from the high ground before making its descent through a narrow gill. The beck's catchment area consists of rough grazing land and moorland typical of these fells, with vegetation dominated by mat grass, purple moor grass, and patches of heather. The stream flows year-round, though its volume varies considerably with rainfall and seasonal conditions. During periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, the beck can transform from a modest trickle into a powerful torrent, dramatically altering the character of Black Force and making the surrounding ground treacherous. The geology of the Howgill Fells is dominated by Silurian rocks of the Windermere Supergroup, primarily composed of mudstones, siltstones, and sandstones laid down in ancient marine environments some 420 million years ago. These sedimentary rocks have been folded and compressed over geological time, creating the distinctive dome-shaped topography of the fells. Black Force flows over these bedded rocks, with the waterfall likely formed where harder bands of rock resist erosion more effectively than the softer layers above and below. The dark coloration that gives the fall its name may result from iron staining, organic matter accumulation, or the naturally darker hue of certain rock layers exposed in the gill. The Howgill Fells have a long history of pastoral farming, with sheep grazing remaining the primary land use to this day. The fell landscape has been shaped by centuries of human activity, though it retains a wilder character than many parts of upland Britain. The network of becks and gills, including Little Ulgill Beck, would have been important water sources for scattered farmsteads and provided power for small-scale industrial activities in earlier times. The fells were extensively walked by notable fell-wanderer Alfred Wainwright, who devoted a separate pictorial guide to the Howgill Fells, praising their smooth contours and relative solitude compared to the busier Lake District peaks. The landscape surrounding Black Force is typical of the Howgill Fells' characteristic terrain, with steep-sided valleys cutting into rounded summit ridges. The vegetation comprises rough grassland with areas of bracken on the lower slopes, while the higher ground supports acidic grassland and moorland plant communities. Birdlife in the area includes species such as skylarks, meadow pipits, wheatears, and ravens, while the remote nature of the fells provides habitat for ground-nesting birds. The becks support limited aquatic life due to their acidic, peaty waters and steep gradients, though invertebrate communities exist in quieter pools and slower sections. Access to Black Force requires a walk into the Howgill Fells, as there are no roads penetrating the heart of this fell range. The nearest approach by car would typically be from the A685 road that runs along the western edge of the fells between Kendal and Kirkby Stephen, or from Sedbergh to the south. Parking might be found at informal layby locations or in Sedbergh itself, from where various footpaths lead into the fells. The terrain is pathless in many areas, requiring good navigation skills, appropriate footwear, and awareness of weather conditions, as these fells are exposed to the elements and can be shrouded in mist even when surrounding lower ground is clear. The approach to Black Force would likely involve following Little Ulgill Beck upstream from lower ground, or descending to the gill from the fell tops. The walking is generally on open access land, allowing freedom to roam, but the ground can be wet, tussocky, and challenging underfoot, particularly in the vicinity of the beck where the terrain steepens. There are no waymarked trails to this specific waterfall, and visitors should be prepared for genuine fell walking conditions. The nearest settlements offering facilities such as shops, accommodation, and cafes would be Sedbergh, a small market town known as the "book town" of England, and the villages along the Lune Valley to the west. The Howgill Fells as a whole remain relatively quiet compared to the Lake District, attracting those who appreciate solitude and wilder walking conditions. Black Force and similar features within these fells are destinations primarily for dedicated walkers and waterfall enthusiasts willing to navigate pathless terrain. The relative obscurity of such locations means they retain an unspoiled character, with the landscape appearing much as it would have for centuries. The fells' smooth profiles were formed during the last Ice Age when glaciers smoothed the underlying rock, creating the flowing lines that distinguish them from the craggier Lake District fells to the west.

Cautley Spout is England's highest above-ground waterfall, cascading approximately 180 metres (590 feet) down the eastern flank of the Howgill Fells in Cumbria. The waterfall is formed by Cautley Holme Beck as it tumbles down a dramatic glacially-carved ravine known as Cautley Holme Beck gorge or Cautley Crag. Rather than a single vertical plunge, the waterfall descends in a series of spectacular leaps and cascades over a steep rock face, creating a white ribbon of water that is visible for miles across the valley below. The flow varies considerably with rainfall and season; after heavy rain the spout becomes a thundering torrent of impressive power, while in drier periods it may reduce to a more modest but still picturesque stream. The underlying geology consists of Silurian sedimentary rocks, primarily greywacke and mudstone, which were laid down some 400 million years ago and later shaped by successive ice ages into the dramatic U-shaped valley and hanging valley configuration we see today. Cautley Holme Beck rises high on the slopes of the Howgill Fells, gathering water from the moorland plateau above the waterfall before making its dramatic descent. The beck's catchment area encompasses the upper reaches of the eastern Howgills, collecting rainfall and runoff from the surrounding rounded fells. After its spectacular fall, the beck flows more gently eastward through the Cautley valley to join the River Rawthey near the village of Cautley. The stream's character changes markedly from its moorland origins through the violent descent of the Spout to the more pastoral lower reaches, reflecting the varied topography of this distinctive landscape. The Howgill Fells themselves form a remarkable range of smooth, rounded hills that stand somewhat apart from both the Yorkshire Dales to the south and the Lake District to the west, though they share geological and scenic characteristics with both. The fells are composed predominantly of Silurian slate and greywacke, giving them their characteristic smooth profiles quite different from the craggy volcanic rocks of the central Lake District. The area around Cautley Spout supports typical upland vegetation including mat-grass, purple moor-grass, and bilberry on the higher slopes, with patches of bracken and woodland in the more sheltered lower valleys. Birdlife includes common upland species such as meadow pipits, skylarks, ravens, and buzzards, while the surrounding fells are grazed by hardy sheep breeds suited to these exposed conditions. The waterfall has long been known to local inhabitants and travelers through this part of the Pennines, though it gained wider recognition with the growth of fell-walking and outdoor recreation in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The renowned fell-walker and guidebook author Alfred Wainwright featured Cautley Spout prominently in his writings about the Howgill Fells, describing the ascent beside the waterfall as one of the finest walks in northern England. The dramatic setting has attracted artists and photographers over the years, drawn by the combination of the cascading water, the imposing crag, and the wild moorland setting. The remoteness and grandeur of the location have given it a somewhat mystical quality, though specific folklore or legends about the waterfall itself are not prominently recorded in historical sources. Access to Cautley Spout is relatively straightforward for those prepared for a moderately strenuous uphill walk. The usual starting point is the Cross Keys Temperance Inn, a distinctive white building situated where the A683 Sedbergh to Kirkby Stephen road crosses the valley at Cautley. Limited roadside parking is available near the inn, though this can fill quickly on fine weekends. From here, a clear path follows Cautley Holme Beck upstream, initially through fields before entering the more dramatic terrain of the ravine itself. The walk to the base of the waterfall is approximately two miles and involves a steady ascent of around 350 metres, taking most visitors between one to two hours depending on fitness and conditions. The path can be steep, rocky, and slippery in places, particularly after rain, and proper walking footwear is essential. The route beside the waterfall continues upward for those wishing to explore further, eventually reaching the moorland plateau above where paths lead to various Howgill summits including The Calf, the highest point in the range at 676 metres. Many walkers combine a visit to Cautley Spout with an ascent of the fells, creating a circular route that offers spectacular views across the surrounding landscape. The town of Sedbergh, approximately four miles to the south, provides the nearest substantial facilities including accommodation, shops, and cafes, and serves as a popular base for exploring the Howgills. The area falls within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, which was extended in 2016 to include the Howgill Fells and other adjoining areas. Cautley Spout's claim as England's highest waterfall above ground is sometimes disputed depending on how waterfalls are measured and defined, with several other cascades in the Lake District and Pennines also claiming notable heights. What is undeniable is that the combination of height, dramatic setting, and accessibility makes it one of the most impressive and popular waterfalls in northern England. The waterfall and its surrounding landscape represent a fine example of glacial geomorphology, with the hanging valley from which the beck descends being a classic result of differential glacial erosion during the ice ages. The experience of standing at the base of the falls, with water crashing down the rocks above and the wild fells rising on either side, offers visitors a powerful sense of the raw natural forces that have shaped this distinctive landscape.