St Mary Magdalene, Taunton
St Mary Magdalene is one of the most celebrated parish churches in Somerset and arguably one of the finest examples of late Perpendicular Gothic architecture in the whole of England. It stands at the heart of Taunton, the county town of Somerset, and dominates the skyline with its magnificent tower, which is widely regarded as the most beautiful church tower in England. The church is a Grade I listed building and sits within a conservation area, drawing visitors from across the country and beyond who come specifically to admire its architecture, its craftsmanship, and its deep roots in the spiritual and civic life of Taunton. It is not merely a historic monument but an active place of worship in the Church of England, welcoming both congregants and curious visitors throughout the year.
The tower of St Mary Magdalene is the defining feature of the building and the reason so many architectural historians and enthusiasts make pilgrimages to Taunton. Rising to a height of approximately 163 feet, it was constructed primarily in the early sixteenth century and represents the pinnacle of the Somerset tower tradition, a regional style characterised by extraordinary vertical ambition, intricate decorative stonework, and a lacework quality achieved through the use of blind arcading, carved panels, and generous window openings. The tower features two oriel windows, a rare and striking detail, and its stages are richly decorated with heraldic carvings and sculptural detail. Remarkably, the tower that stands today is largely a Victorian reconstruction, undertaken between 1858 and 1862 by the architect Benjamin Ferrey, because the original medieval tower had become dangerously unstable. Ferrey's reconstruction was carried out with exceptional faithfulness to the original design, using local Ham Hill stone, and it is considered one of the most successful exercises in Victorian Gothic restoration in Britain.
The history of the church stretches back to the medieval period, with a place of worship on or near this site documented from at least the twelfth century. Taunton itself was an important ecclesiastical and market town throughout the Middle Ages, and the church grew in size and ambition alongside the town's prosperity. The nave and chancel were significantly remodelled in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, reflecting the wealth generated by the local wool trade, which funded so much of Somerset's extraordinary church-building heritage. The church experienced turbulent moments during the English Civil War, when Taunton was a Parliamentarian stronghold besieged by Royalist forces, and the building suffered damage and disruption during this period. The aftermath of the Monmouth Rebellion in 1685 cast a long shadow over Taunton, as Judge Jeffreys held part of his notorious Bloody Assizes in the town following the failed uprising, and the church played a role in the life of the community through these dark events.
Inside, the church is a space of considerable grandeur and accumulated history. The nave is wide and light-filled, with tall Perpendicular arches and clerestory windows that flood the interior with a cool, diffuse light characteristic of the style. The rooflines are high, and the overall impression is of soaring vertical space punctuated by carved stonework and the warm colour of Ham Hill stone. There are numerous monuments and memorials spanning several centuries, recording the lives of prominent local families and significant figures in Somerset history. The font is of medieval origin, and the church contains interesting woodwork, stained glass of varying periods, and a set of bells that have rung out over Taunton for centuries. The atmosphere inside is one of quiet reverence and living history, with the accumulation of centuries of worship, celebration, and mourning palpable in the worn stone floors and the layered fabric of the building.
The church stands at the top of the town centre, a short walk from Taunton's main shopping streets and the historic castle that houses the Museum of Somerset. The surrounding area of central Taunton provides an agreeable context for a visit, with independent shops, cafes, and restaurants within easy walking distance. Taunton railway station, which sits on the Great Western Main Line and provides direct services to London Paddington, Bristol, and Exeter, is approximately a ten to fifteen minute walk from the church, making it straightforward to visit as part of a journey through Somerset. The town also lies at the heart of the Vale of Taunton Deane, and the nearby Somerset Levels and the Quantock Hills, which are Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, offer scenic walking country within a short drive.
For visitors wishing to see the church, it is generally open during daytime hours for personal visits and prayer, though it is advisable to check the church's own website or contact the parish office in advance as opening times can vary seasonally and around services. The church holds regular Sunday services and midweek services, and visiting during a choral service provides an opportunity to hear the building used as it was intended, with music filling the high vaulted spaces. Photography is generally permitted, and the exterior is particularly rewarding to photograph, especially in morning light when the honey-coloured Ham Hill stone glows warmly. The tower is at its most dramatic when viewed from a slight distance, such as from the nearby streets, where its full height and decorative complexity can be appreciated.
A particularly fascinating detail in the history of the building concerns the role of women in its Victorian restoration. The reconstruction of the tower in the 1860s was funded in significant part through local subscriptions and donations, reflecting the deep civic and community attachment to the building. The church also has a notable connection to the Convocation of Canterbury, and its importance within the Diocese of Bath and Wells has been consistently recognised over many centuries. The sheer ambition of the original builders in the Perpendicular period, working in a regional tradition that placed enormous artistic and financial resources into the construction of towers as statements of faith, civic pride, and mercantile success, is something that remains tangible when standing at the base of the tower and looking upward at the intricate web of carved stone rising into the Somerset sky.