The Princess Louise
The Princess Louise stands as one of London's most magnificent Victorian gin palaces, a Grade II listed public house that has graced High Holborn since 1872. Named after Queen Victoria's fourth daughter, Princess Louise, who married the Marquess of Lorne in 1871, the pub was built during the height of the Victorian era's pub-building boom. The building itself occupies a prominent corner position where High Holborn meets the quieter streets of Bloomsbury, and it has served beer and spirits continuously for over 150 years, surviving both World Wars and numerous threats of modernization that claimed so many of its contemporaries.
The interior of The Princess Louise is nothing short of breathtaking, representing one of the finest and most complete examples of Victorian pub architecture remaining in Britain. The pub's most striking features are its extraordinary etched and cut-glass screens, which divide the main bar into a series of intimate snugs and booths, preserving the original layout when social classes drank separately but under the same roof. These ornate glass partitions feature elaborate floral designs and frosted patterns that catch and diffract the light in mesmerizing ways. The ceiling is adorned with beautiful decorative tiles and plasterwork, while the walls showcase rich wood paneling and more intricate tilework. The horseshoe-shaped bar, with its gleaming Victorian-era fittings, remains largely unchanged from the original design, and the gents' toilets are themselves listed for their stunning ceramic urinals and tilework—a testament to the Victorians' commitment to ornament even in the most utilitarian spaces.
The pub's atmosphere manages to be both grand and welcoming, a rare combination that speaks to the quality of its preservation and the care taken in its operation. Despite the opulence of its surroundings, The Princess Louise maintains the character of a genuine public house rather than a museum piece. The etched glass partitions create cozy, semi-private drinking areas where conversations can be held in relative intimacy despite the pub's often considerable crowds. The original gas lamp fittings, though now electric, still cast a warm glow that enhances the rich colors of the wood and tile. It's a space that rewards close inspection, with new details revealing themselves upon each visit—a carved wooden flourish here, an intricate tile pattern there.
As a Samuel Smith's house, The Princess Louise serves the Yorkshire brewery's full range of traditional ales and lagers at notably reasonable prices for central London. Samuel Smith's operates several historic pubs in London, and their ownership has arguably been crucial in preserving the Princess Louise's authentic character, as the brewery is known for maintaining traditional pub interiors and resisting the urge to modernize. The beer selection includes Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Bitter, a classic English pale ale, as well as their organic lager and various seasonal offerings. The pub also serves the brewery's own-brand spirits and wines. Food offerings are traditional pub fare—pies, sausages, and other straightforward British classics—though it's worth noting that many visitors come primarily for the beer and the building rather than culinary innovation.
The Princess Louise sits in Bloomsbury, one of London's most literary and intellectual neighborhoods, bordered by the British Museum, the University of London, and numerous historic squares. High Holborn itself is a major thoroughfare connecting the City of London to the West End, and the pub's location makes it a natural stopping point for both office workers and tourists exploring the area. Nearby you'll find the imposing Victorian Gothic edifice of the Royal Courts of Justice, the verdant spaces of Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the shop-lined bustle of Kingsway. The neighborhood's association with publishing houses, universities, and learned societies gives it a distinctly cerebral character, though High Holborn's mix of commerce and history keeps things grounded.
Given its location in legal and academic London, The Princess Louise has long attracted a diverse clientele of barristers, solicitors, academics, students, and civil servants alongside curious visitors drawn by its architectural fame. While specific famous regulars are not extensively documented, the pub's longevity and location suggest it has witnessed countless significant conversations and chance meetings over its fourteen decades of operation. The combination of Bloomsbury's literary heritage and the pub's Victorian splendor makes it easy to imagine the ghosts of writers and thinkers who might have paused here, though the pub's greatest historical significance lies in its architecture rather than documented celebrity patronage.
The best time to visit The Princess Louise depends entirely on what experience you're seeking. Weekday lunchtimes and early evenings see the pub filled with workers from nearby offices and law courts, creating a bustling, authentic atmosphere but also meaning the space can become quite crowded. Those wishing to properly admire the architectural details might prefer visiting mid-afternoon on a weekday, when the crowds thin and you can examine the etched glass and tilework at leisure. Weekend afternoons attract a mix of locals and tourists, and the pub can be particularly busy when major exhibitions draw crowds to the nearby British Museum. It's worth noting that as a Samuel Smith's establishment, the pub maintains certain traditional policies, including a ban on mobile phone use and laptops, which some appreciate as preserving old-fashioned pub conversation while others may find restrictive.
First-time visitors should be prepared for the possibility of crowds, especially during peak hours, but shouldn't let this deter them from experiencing one of London's genuine Victorian treasures. The layout of the snugs means that even when busy, there are semi-secluded spots to be found. The beer prices are remarkably affordable for central London, making it possible to settle in for a proper session without breaking the bank. Photography is generally permitted and indeed encouraged—this is a space that deserves to be documented and shared. The staff are accustomed to admiring visitors and generally tolerant of those who spend time marveling at their surroundings, though maintaining proper pub etiquette and ordering drinks is, of course, expected.