St Etheldreda’s Church
St Etheldreda's Church stands as one of London's most extraordinary hidden treasures, a genuine medieval survivor tucked away on Ely Place in Holborn. While tourists flock to Westminster Abbey and St Paul's Cathedral, this intimate 13th-century chapel remains blissfully overlooked, known primarily to Catholics attending mass, medieval architecture enthusiasts, and those fortunate enough to stumble upon it while wandering the legal quarter of London. What makes it truly special is not just its age—it's one of only two remaining buildings in London from the reign of Edward I—but its remarkably intact medieval character, complete with original crypt and stunning stained glass that somehow survived both the Great Fire and the Blitz.
The church was built around 1290 as the chapel of the Bishop of Ely's London palace, which once occupied this entire area. The Bishops of Ely maintained a vast estate here from 1290 until the Reformation, serving as their residence when church business required them in the capital. The chapel was dedicated to St Etheldreda (also known as St Audrey), a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon princess who founded a monastery at Ely and became one of England's most venerated saints. The building itself represents the Decorated Gothic style at its finest, with soaring windows that would have proclaimed the bishop's wealth and importance. After the Reformation, the property passed through various hands, and the chapel served as a Protestant church, a tavern, and even a ballroom before being returned to Catholic use in 1874 by the Rosminian Fathers, who continue to serve the parish today.
Approaching St Etheldreda's requires navigating one of London's most peculiar streets. Ely Place is technically not part of London at all—it's a private road that remains under the jurisdiction of the Commissioners of Ely Place, a remnant of its medieval status. A beadle in traditional uniform still patrols the street, which is gated at the Holborn Circus end. The church itself sits partway down this quiet cul-de-sac, its modest exterior giving little hint of the glories within. The building's survival is itself miraculous: it escaped the Great Fire of 1666, weathered the dissolution of the monasteries, and emerged from World War II bombing raids that devastated much of the surrounding area.
Stepping inside St Etheldreda's is to enter a space that feels genuinely medieval rather than Victorian Gothic revival. The upper church, reached by a flight of stone steps from street level, is a single chamber of breathtaking beauty. The east and west windows dominate the space—vast expanses of stained glass that flood the interior with coloured light. The west window, depicting the Tree of Jesse, is particularly magnificent. The roof timbers, though restored, follow the original medieval design, and the overall proportions create an atmosphere of intimate grandeur. The church is relatively small, seating perhaps two hundred people, which adds to its sense of being a personal discovery rather than a grand public monument.
The crypt beneath the main church is equally compelling and offers a tangible connection to the medieval past. This low-vaulched space with its sturdy columns and ancient stonework served as the undercroft of the bishop's palace. The atmosphere here is cool, quiet, and profoundly atmospheric—you can genuinely feel the weight of seven centuries pressing down. The crypt now serves as a chapel and occasionally hosts concerts, taking advantage of its remarkable acoustics. Both levels of the church are enriched by excellent modern stained glass alongside the medieval work, creating a dialogue between centuries that somehow enhances rather than diminishes the historical character.
The congregation at St Etheldreda's tends to be a mix of local workers attending weekday masses, residents of nearby Bloomsbury and Clerkenwell, and Catholic visitors who seek out this historic church for its spiritual and architectural significance. The Rosminians maintain a welcoming atmosphere, and visitors are generally free to explore quietly when services are not in progress. The church hosts regular concerts, particularly of early and baroque music, which suit the intimate acoustic perfectly. These concerts attract classical music enthusiasts who appreciate the unusual setting, and the combination of medieval architecture and period-appropriate music creates memorable evenings.
Finding St Etheldreda's requires specific directions, as Ely Place is easily missed. From Holborn Circus, look for the narrow entrance to Ely Place between the modern buildings—there's a traditional pub called Ye Olde Mitre directly opposite the entrance, which serves as a useful landmark. Walk down Ely Place (past the beadle's lodge if he's on duty) and the church entrance is on the right, marked by a small courtyard. The nearest Underground station is Chancery Lane on the Central Line, about a five-minute walk away, or Farringdon, which is served by the Circle, Hammersmith & City, Metropolitan, and Elizabeth lines. The church is typically open during the day for visitors, though times vary, and attending one of the regular masses offers the fullest experience of the space in use for its intended purpose.
The surrounding area rewards exploration and makes St Etheldreda's part of a fascinating historical walk. Ye Olde Mitre pub, mentioned above, dates from 1546 and is itself a hidden gem, tucked into a narrow alley with no street frontage. The Inns of Court—Gray's Inn and Lincoln's Inn—are within easy walking distance, offering more medieval and Tudor architecture, peaceful gardens, and a glimpse into London's legal heritage. Hatton Garden, the heart of London's diamond trade, runs parallel to Ely Place and offers a completely different atmosphere of bustling commerce. St Andrew Holborn, Wren's largest parish church, stands at Holborn Circus and provides an interesting contrast in scale and style. The British Museum is a fifteen-minute walk north, while Smithfield Market and the Museum of London are equally close to the east, making it easy to incorporate St Etheldreda's into a day exploring this historically rich quarter of London.