Somerset House
Somerset House stands as one of London's most distinguished neoclassical buildings, its elegant riverside terrace offering visitors a commanding prospect over the Thames that has enchanted observers for over two centuries. From the elevated southern terrace, which runs along the entire length of the building's river frontage, you gain a sweeping panorama that takes in the South Bank's cultural institutions, the graceful arcs of Waterloo Bridge to the west, and the dynamic interplay of river traffic below. The viewpoint is particularly special because it combines architectural grandeur with an exceptional vantage point, allowing you to appreciate both the building's own magnificent scale and the Thames as it curves through central London. On clear days, the vista extends far downstream, while closer at hand you can observe the boats navigating the river, the pedestrians crossing Waterloo Bridge, and the ever-changing light playing across the water's surface.
The current Somerset House, completed in 1796 to designs by Sir William Chambers, occupies a site that has hosted royal and administrative buildings since the Tudor period. The original Somerset House was built in the 1540s for the Duke of Somerset, Lord Protector during the minority of Edward VI, and it became the residence of various queens consort over subsequent centuries. When the Tudor palace was demolished in the eighteenth century, Chambers was commissioned to create a grand public building that would house learned societies, government offices, and the Navy Board. The building was conceived on an ambitious scale, with a vast courtyard and, crucially for its riverside aspect, a magnificent terrace that took full advantage of the Thames frontage. The terrace was designed not merely as a functional space but as a promenade where visitors could take the air while enjoying views across the river, reflecting the Georgian appreciation for prospects and picturesque landscapes.
The view from Somerset House's terrace has transformed dramatically since the building's completion. In Chambers' time, visitors would have looked out over a working river crowded with sailing vessels, coal barges, and wherries ferrying passengers across the Thames. The embankment that now runs along the river's edge did not exist; instead, the Thames lapped directly against the building's foundations, and boats could moor at steps leading down from the terrace. The construction of the Victoria Embankment in the 1860s fundamentally altered this relationship, pushing the riverbank outward and creating the roadway that now separates Somerset House from the water. What was once a building rising directly from the Thames became set back from it, though this intervention also created new public gardens and walkways. The South Bank opposite has been similarly transformed, evolving from industrial wharves and warehouses into the cultural quarter that exists today, with the National Theatre, Southbank Centre, and other institutions creating a very different skyline from the one eighteenth-century viewers would have known.
The terrace is at its most atmospheric during the golden hours of early morning and late afternoon, when the low sun illuminates the river and casts long shadows across the building's Portland stone façade. Summer evenings are particularly popular, as the extended daylight allows visitors to linger while watching the sunset paint the sky behind the South Bank. Winter visits offer their own rewards, especially on crisp, clear days when the light is sharp and the view extends further than in the hazier conditions of warmer months. The terrace takes on a special character during Somerset House's seasonal events, notably the winter ice rink that transforms the central courtyard and brings additional life to the entire complex. Weather plays a significant role in the experience; a bright day after rain can offer exceptional clarity, while dramatic cloudscapes add theatre to the riverside prospect.
Accessing the terrace is straightforward, as Somerset House welcomes visitors free of charge to its public spaces, including both the central courtyard and the riverside terrace. The main entrance on the Strand leads through to the courtyard, from which clearly marked passages guide you through to the southern side and the terrace itself. The building is step-free accessible via lifts, making the viewpoint available to wheelchair users and those with mobility challenges, though it's advisable to check with staff for the most convenient route. Somerset House is exceptionally well-connected by public transport, situated just off the Strand with Temple and Covent Garden underground stations both within easy walking distance. Numerous bus routes serve the Strand, and the location is also accessible from Charing Cross and Waterloo stations for those arriving by rail. The Lancaster Place entrance on the western side provides an alternative access point for those approaching from Waterloo Bridge.
The building itself houses multiple attractions that make Somerset House worthy of an extended visit beyond simply enjoying the terrace view. The Courtauld Gallery, one of Britain's finest collections of art, occupies part of the complex and features masterpieces by Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painters alongside Old Masters and decorative arts. Various temporary exhibitions throughout the year showcase contemporary art, design, photography, and fashion in several gallery spaces around the courtyard. The Embankment Galleries, located on the terrace level, host changing exhibitions that often explore themes of culture, society, and visual arts. During your visit, you might also explore the atmospheric Seamen's Hall and Nelson Stair, remnants of the building's naval administration past, or stop at one of the cafés and restaurants that have made Somerset House a destination for dining as well as culture.
The surrounding neighbourhood offers abundant opportunities to extend your exploration. The Victoria Embankment Gardens, directly below the terrace, provide a peaceful green space with memorials and mature trees, while a stroll along the embankment itself takes you past Cleopatra's Needle and toward the Houses of Parliament in one direction or the City of London in the other. Covent Garden's bustling piazza, shops, and street performers lie just a few minutes' walk to the north, while the theatrical district of the West End is equally close. The Thames Path runs along the riverbank, offering the option of a riverside walk either upstream toward Westminster or downstream toward the City, with Waterloo Bridge providing an easy crossing to reach the South Bank's cultural venues. The close proximity of legal London's Inns of Court, the boutiques and cafés of Seven Dials, and the quirky shops of Cecil Court creates a remarkably rich area for exploration before or after your visit to the terrace.
Somerset House occupies a unique position in London's cultural landscape, functioning simultaneously as a working arts venue, a repository of significant collections, a popular events space, and a public amenity where Londoners and visitors alike can enjoy one of the city's finest riverside prospects. The terrace embodies the Georgian vision of architecture serving both practical and aesthetic purposes, providing a space where the simple act of looking at the river becomes an elevated experience framed by classical design. Whether you visit specifically for the view, as part of exploring the building's artistic offerings, or simply as a pleasant spot to pause during a walk along the Strand, the terrace rewards attention with its combination of historical resonance, architectural dignity, and the timeless appeal of watching London's great river flow past.