Mount Keen
Mount Keen is the most easterly of Scotland's Munros, that celebrated list of peaks exceeding 3,000 feet in height, and its summit sits at 939 metres (3,081 feet) above sea level on the border between Aberdeenshire and Angus. The mountain stands apart from the main Cairngorm massif and the higher, more dramatic peaks of the central Highlands, occupying instead a more solitary, rolling position in the eastern Grampians. This relative isolation and its status as the easternmost Munro give it a particular appeal among hill walkers who are either bagging Munros or simply seeking a rewarding day on the hill with a sense of genuine remoteness. The peak's cone-shaped summit, which is unusually well-defined compared to the broad, plateau-like tops that characterise many of its Grampian neighbours, makes it immediately recognisable from a distance and adds a satisfying sense of achievement upon reaching its rocky crown.
The mountain takes its name from the Gaelic "Monadh Caoin," meaning the smooth or pleasant hill, and it is a fitting description, as the approach routes traverse wide, open moorland that rolls gently before the final steeper pull to the summit. Human presence in this landscape has ancient roots, and the surrounding glens were heavily used as drove roads for centuries, with cattle being moved between the Angus lowlands and the markets further north. The historic Mounth Road, one of the oldest and most important of Scotland's ancient high passes, crosses near the mountain and was used by pilgrims, drovers, soldiers, and monarchs alike. Mary Queen of Scots is said to have ridden through Glen Mark in 1562 while on a royal progress through the north of Scotland, lending the area a faint thread of royal history.
Physically, the experience of ascending Mount Keen is one of wide open skies and a sense of exposure that belies the mountain's modest height relative to its western cousins. The final approach from Glen Mark, which is the most popular route and begins at the end of the public road at Invermark, follows the Water of Mark upstream before rising steadily onto open moorland. The summit itself is marked by a substantial cairn and a trig point, and on a clear day the views are genuinely sweeping, extending east toward the North Sea coast near Montrose and Stonehaven, north toward the Cairngorm plateau, and west toward the higher peaks of the Mounth. The air tends to be clean and sharp even in summer, and in winter the hill can hold significant snow and ice, with the ridge and summit prone to wind-driven drift.
The surrounding landscape is characteristic of the eastern Grampians: vast tracts of heather moorland managed for grouse, narrow river valleys carved by fast-flowing burns, and a conspicuous absence of trees above the valley floors. Glen Esk, which contains Invermark and the glen of the Water of Mark, is one of the most scenic of Angus's glens, and the area is rich with wildlife including red grouse, mountain hare, golden plover, and occasional short-eared owls. Loch Lee, just below Invermark, is a small and beautiful loch overlooked by the romantic ruins of Invermark Castle, a 16th-century tower house that once guarded the Mounth pass. The castle and the nearby Church of St Drostan add considerable historical texture to a visit, and the combination of natural and built heritage makes Glen Esk rewarding beyond the mountain itself.
A second popular approach comes from the Deeside side, starting at Glen Tanar estate near Aboyne, and this longer route follows ancient tracks across open moorland and is particularly atmospheric for its sense of history as a genuine drove road. The Mounth Road between Glen Tanar and Glen Mark is a wonderful walk in its own right, and combining it with the summit of Mount Keen in a long linear walk is a classic Grampian day out. The distance from either starting point makes this a committed undertaking, with the Glen Mark route offering a return of around 16 kilometres and a total ascent of approximately 700 metres, which is substantial but manageable for a fit hill walker.
Visitors should be aware that access to Invermark is along a single-track road through Glen Esk, and parking at the road end is limited. The estate operates deer stalking between August and October, and during this period it is important to check with the estate before heading onto the hill, as some routes may be temporarily restricted. The Hillphones service or the Heading for the Scottish Hills website can provide up-to-date information on stalking activity. The mountain is genuinely remote from emergency services, and full hill walking equipment including navigation tools, appropriate clothing, and sufficient food and water is essential. The best conditions for walking are generally from May through to September, though the hill is beautiful in snow and some experienced winter walkers specifically seek it out in those conditions.
One of the more charming details of a visit to this part of Angus is the Queen's Well, a spring near the foot of the hill in Glen Mark that is traditionally identified as the spot where Mary Queen of Scots stopped to drink during her 1562 journey. The well is marked by a small Victorian monument erected in 1861 to commemorate the tercentenary of her passage, and it makes a pleasant and historically resonant resting point on the walk. The Glenesk Folk Museum at Tarfside, a few miles down the glen, is also worth a visit for those interested in the social and agricultural history of this quietly fascinating corner of Scotland, preserving the everyday life of a community that once depended on the hills for its livelihood in ways that are now largely invisible in the landscape.