Eas Mòr
Eas Mòr is a spectacular waterfall located on the Isle of Skye in the Scottish Highlands, falling within one of Britain's most celebrated landscapes. The name itself comes from Scottish Gaelic and translates simply as "Big Waterfall" or "Great Waterfall," a name that does the feature justice. Situated near Glenbrittle at the foot of the Cuillin mountains, it is one of the more accessible and rewarding natural attractions on an island already rich in dramatic scenery. The falls draw hillwalkers, photographers, wild swimmers, and casual visitors who are willing to make the short hike from the Glenbrittle campsite and car park area.
The waterfall descends from the slopes of the Black Cuillin ridge, fed by the burn that drains from Coire Lagan, one of the most famous glacially-carved corries in the British Isles. The waters gather in the high mountain bowl where a lochan sits surrounded by gabbro and basalt rock, and then tumble downward over a series of cascades before making the most dramatic plunge at Eas Mòr itself. The fall is typically around 30 metres in height, and the force and volume of water varies considerably with the season and recent rainfall. After heavy rain or snowmelt from the Cuillins, it transforms into a thundering torrent, while in dry summer spells it becomes a more delicate veil of white against dark rock.
In person, the experience of Eas Mòr is intensely sensory. The roar of the water can be heard well before the falls come into view, and the spray creates a perpetual mist that keeps the surrounding rocks and vegetation vivid green even in dry weather. The dark gabbroic rock faces contrast dramatically with the white cascade, and in certain lights — particularly on bright mornings when the sun catches the water — rainbows form in the spray below the main drop. The pool at the base is cold and clear, popular with those brave enough to swim in the characteristically frigid Highland water, and the surrounding rocks make natural seating for those who simply want to sit and absorb the scene.
The landscape surrounding Eas Mòr is dominated by the Black Cuillin, the most technically demanding mountain range in Britain and a place steeped in both geological and human significance. The Cuillins were sacred and dangerous in local lore for centuries, and Gaelic tradition held them in awe as places of spirit and unpredictable power. Glenbrittle itself is a long, relatively flat glen running down to a beach on Loch Brittle, with views westward across the sea toward the Outer Hebrides. The area is sparsely populated today but was once part of a more densely settled Gaelic community whose way of life was disrupted by the Highland Clearances in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
The walk to the falls from Glenbrittle campsite is relatively short — around one to two kilometres — and gains modest elevation, making it one of the more accessible excursions in an area otherwise dominated by serious mountaineering routes. The path follows the course of the burn uphill through open moorland, with the Cuillin peaks rising steeply to the east. The path can be boggy and rough in places, and appropriate footwear is strongly recommended. Many visitors use the waterfall as a destination in its own right, while others treat it as the first stage of the longer approach to Coire Lagan and the high mountains above.
The best time to visit is arguably late spring through early autumn, when daylight hours are long and the weather, while never guaranteed in the Scottish Highlands, is at its most hospitable. Midsummer visits offer extraordinary evening light that lingers until very late. Winter visits can be dramatic when the surrounding peaks are snow-capped, but the path becomes more hazardous and water levels can be very high. The campsite at Glenbrittle is one of Scotland's most beloved wild camping spots, operated by the Glenbrittle Memorial Hut and mountaineering community, and spending a night there allows visitors to experience the waterfall and the surrounding landscape at quieter hours before the day visitors arrive. Parking is available at the campsite for a small fee, and the road to Glenbrittle runs off the main Skye road south of Carbost.