Church of St Mary and All Saints, Chesterfield
The Church of St Mary and All Saints in Chesterfield, Derbyshire, is one of the most instantly recognisable and beloved parish churches in England, famed above all for its extraordinary twisted and leaning spire, which has become the defining symbol of the town. The spire, rising to approximately 69 metres (228 feet), is the tallest in Derbyshire and is celebrated as the largest twisted spire in the world. Far from being a modern curiosity or a structural failure, it is an ancient phenomenon that has been part of Chesterfield's skyline for centuries, drawing visitors from across Britain and beyond who come simply to stand beneath it and marvel. The church itself is a large, handsome medieval structure of real architectural merit quite apart from its extraordinary crowning feature, and it functions today as an active Anglican parish church serving the community while welcoming a steady stream of tourists throughout the year.
The church was founded in the early medieval period, with the first documentary references appearing in the twelfth century, though a place of Christian worship likely existed on this site earlier. The main fabric of the building dates predominantly from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and the spire was constructed in the early fourteenth century, probably around 1362. The twist and lean of the spire developed over subsequent centuries and are now believed to have been caused by a combination of factors: the use of unseasoned green timber in the herringbone lead cladding, which dried and warped over time; the absence of sufficient cross-bracing within the wooden framework; and the effects of sunlight heating one side of the spire differentially. The spire leans approximately 2.9 metres to the south-west of its true centre and twists some 45 degrees from base to tip. Local legend, inevitably, provides more colourful explanations — the most popular being that the Devil, resting on the spire, was startled by the smell of virgin leather from a cobbler's shoe nearby, and twisted in surprise as he flew off. Another version holds that the spire will straighten up if a Chesterfield virgin marries in the church, implying the phenomenon has long endured.
Architecturally, the church is a fine example of English Gothic construction in the Decorated and Perpendicular styles. The interior is spacious, light-filled, and contains a number of chapels — including the Chapel of Our Lady, the Roslyn Chapel, and the Foljambe Chapel, the last of which houses a notable collection of medieval effigies and monuments commemorating the prominent local Foljambe family. The church holds some notable stained glass, including Victorian additions, and the overall atmosphere inside is one of calm antiquity, with the cool stone walls, worn flagged floors, and the faint smell of old wood and candlewax that characterise long-lived English churches. The organ and choir have a fine local reputation, and the church's acoustics make it a venue for concerts and choral events throughout the year.
Standing outside the church, particularly from the market place to the south or from the surrounding streets, the visual experience of the spire is genuinely startling and somewhat disorienting. At close range the twist is almost dizzying, and depending on the angle from which you approach, the degree of lean appears to change. The church is positioned at the heart of Chesterfield's historic market town centre, surrounded by a pedestrianised area that includes one of the oldest and largest open-air markets in England — the Chesterfield Market, held on the market square immediately adjacent. The town retains much of its historic character in this quarter, with Georgian and Victorian buildings lining the streets alongside older timber-framed structures. The Crooked Spire, as locals affectionately know it, appears in views throughout the town, peeking over rooftops and framing the market square in a way that makes Chesterfield feel deeply and distinctively itself.
The surrounding area of north Derbyshire offers considerable appeal beyond the church itself. Chesterfield sits at the eastern edge of the Peak District, and the dramatic moorland and limestone dales of that national park are within easy reach. The town also has connections to George Stephenson, the railway pioneer, who spent his later years in Chesterfield and is buried in the nearby Holy Trinity Church. The Chesterfield Canal, a Georgian waterway, passes through the area and offers pleasant walking along its towpath. The town's museum and art gallery, a short walk away, provides further context for the region's industrial and social history.
Visiting is straightforward and highly recommended. The church is open to visitors during daylight hours most days of the year, though it is wise to check ahead for service times when access to certain areas may be restricted. There is no charge for entry, though donations are warmly welcomed to support the ongoing maintenance of this remarkable building. Chesterfield railway station, served by frequent trains on the Midland Main Line from London St Pancras, Sheffield, and Derby, is approximately a ten-minute walk from the church through the town centre. For drivers, there are several car parks in the town centre. The church is fully accessible at ground level through the main south entrance. The spire is best photographed in morning light from the market square, and the church is quieter and more atmospherically explored on weekdays outside of market days, though the bustle of a market day Thursday or Saturday gives a wonderfully medieval sense of the site as it has functioned for centuries.