The Spaniards Inn
The Spaniards Inn stands on Spaniards Road in Hampstead, a legendary public house that has served travelers and locals since the early sixteenth century. The building's origins are contested, with some sources dating it to 1585, making it one of London's oldest surviving pubs. The name itself has multiple origin stories: one claims it was named after two Spanish brothers who fought a duel over a woman, both perishing in the combat; another suggests it was named after the Spanish ambassador to James I's court who once resided here. The inn occupies a strategic position on what was once a turnpike road leading out of London, serving as both a toll house and coaching inn in centuries past. Its location made it a natural stopping point for travelers heading to and from the city, and the building retains its historic toll house across the road, connected by a narrow passage that once caused significant traffic congestion.
The architecture of The Spaniards Inn reflects its centuries of continuous operation, with low ceilings, dark wooden beams, and an unmistakable patina of age throughout. The interior is a labyrinth of interconnected rooms, each with its own character, featuring original flagstone floors, open fireplaces, and walls adorned with historic prints and memorabilia. The pub's exterior presents a white-painted facade that gleams against the surrounding greenery of Hampstead Heath, with a charming beer garden that has become one of its most celebrated features. In summer months, this garden fills with visitors seeking refuge from the city, enjoying views across the Heath while sitting beneath ancient trees. The atmosphere inside remains decidedly old-world, with its cramped spaces and irregular layout testament to centuries of organic growth rather than planned design.
Literary connections run deep at The Spaniards Inn, making it a pilgrimage site for those interested in English letters. Charles Dickens featured the pub in "The Pickwick Papers," and it's said he wrote parts of the novel while sitting in the inn's cozy interior. John Keats was a regular visitor, living nearby in Hampstead, and reportedly composed parts of "Ode to a Nightingale" after walking on the Heath and stopping at the inn. The Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley, Lord Byron, and other luminaries of the era also frequented the establishment during Hampstead's golden age as a literary suburb. The pub's connections to highwaymen add another layer of romantic history—Dick Turpin allegedly used the inn as a hiding place, and his father may have been the landlord, though these claims remain part of the establishment's mythology rather than established fact.
The Spaniards Inn played a notable role during the Gordon Riots of 1780, when the landlord allegedly saved Kenwood House from being burned by an angry mob. According to local legend, the quick-thinking publican plied the rioters with free drinks until they became too intoxicated to continue their destructive mission, allowing time for the militia to arrive. Whether entirely true or embellished over time, the story has become an integral part of the inn's narrative and speaks to its position as a community institution during turbulent times. The building's role as a toll house meant it witnessed countless historical moments, from the passage of notable figures to the everyday movements of Londoners seeking countryside respite.
The food and drink offering at The Spaniards Inn balances tradition with modern gastropub expectations. The establishment serves a full menu of British classics alongside more contemporary dishes, with Sunday roasts being particularly popular and often requiring advance booking. The bar carries a solid selection of real ales, craft beers, and a wine list suitable for the affluent Hampstead clientele. In keeping with its historic character, the pub maintains traditional cask ales and takes pride in its role as a proper British public house rather than merely a tourist attraction. The kitchen produces hearty, well-executed fare that suits both those finishing a walk on the Heath and locals settling in for an evening meal.
Hampstead itself provides the perfect setting for this historic inn, positioned at the edge of Hampstead Heath's 790 acres of ancient parkland. The pub sits near the top of one of London's highest points, surrounded by some of the capital's most expensive residential real estate. The immediate vicinity includes narrow lanes, grand houses hidden behind high walls, and the wild expanse of the Heath beginning just across the road. Kenwood House, the neoclassical mansion that the pub allegedly saved from destruction, lies a short walk away through the Heath, offering visitors a natural pairing of historic sites. The area retains a village-like atmosphere despite being firmly within London's borders, with the pub serving as a focal point for both the local community and visitors drawn to Hampstead's cultural cachet.
The best time to visit The Spaniards Inn depends largely on what experience you're seeking. Summer weekends see the beer garden packed with families, dog walkers fresh from the Heath, and groups of friends enjoying the rare pleasure of outdoor drinking in such historic surroundings. Winter visits offer a cozier experience, with fires burning and the low-lit interior providing atmospheric refuge from cold weather walks. Weekday visits, particularly in the afternoon, allow for a quieter appreciation of the building's historic character without the crowds. Be prepared for the pub to be busy during peak times—its reputation and location make it a popular destination, and the limited indoor space means it can feel cramped when full.
Visiting The Spaniards Inn requires some practical considerations. The pub is most easily reached by taking the London Underground to Hampstead station, then either walking approximately thirty minutes uphill through Hampstead village and along Spaniards Road, or taking a bus. Alternatively, Golders Green station lies closer for those approaching from the north. Parking is limited and the surrounding roads narrow, making public transport or walking the preferred options. The historic building means accessibility may be limited for those with mobility challenges, with uneven floors and tight doorways throughout. Despite these constraints, the pub remains fully operational as a working establishment, balancing its role as a heritage site with the demands of modern hospitality.
The enduring appeal of The Spaniards Inn lies in its authentic preservation of centuries of London history combined with its continued function as a genuine public house. Unlike some historic pubs that have become museums of themselves, this establishment retains a lived-in quality and serves the local community as it has for hundreds of years. The literary associations, architectural interest, and beautiful setting create a destination that rewards the journey, whether you're a tourist seeking Dickensian atmosphere, a local enjoying a Sunday pint, or a walker needing refreshment after traversing the Heath. The pub stands as a tangible link to London's past, its survival through wars, social changes, and economic pressures a testament to both its physical resilience and its continued relevance to those who value historic character and genuine hospitality.