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The Jugged Hare

Restaurant • City of London • EC1M 4AN
The Jugged Hare

The Jugged Hare stands on a corner site at 49 Chiswell Street in Smithfield, occupying a handsome Victorian building that dates from the 1860s. The pub takes its name from a traditional English dish of stewed hare, a deliberate nod to the area's centuries-old association with the meat trade and Smithfield Market, which has operated nearby since medieval times. The building itself was originally constructed as a bank, and the grandeur of its Victorian architecture reflects that more prestigious original purpose. The high ceilings, large windows, and ornate plasterwork all speak to an era when financial institutions were designed to inspire confidence and awe in equal measure.

Inside, the pub has retained many of the building's original architectural features while adapting the space for contemporary hospitality. The interior is characterized by its impressive ceiling height and elegant proportions, with dark wood paneling, period fixtures, and a substantial bar that dominates the main room. The atmosphere manages to be both refined and welcoming, avoiding the stuffiness that can sometimes afflict establishments in historic buildings. Large windows flood the space with natural light during the day, while evening brings a warmer, more intimate ambiance as the lights are lowered and the polished surfaces gleam.

What truly distinguishes The Jugged Hare is its commitment to British game and traditional meat dishes, making it something of a culinary monument to Smithfield's heritage as London's principal meat market. The pub is particularly known for its rotisserie, which is often visible to diners and from which emerge perfectly roasted birds and joints of meat. During the game season, the menu features an impressive array of venison, partridge, grouse, and other wild meats, prepared in both traditional and contemporary styles. The namesake jugged hare appears on the menu when available, prepared according to time-honored methods that involve slow-cooking the meat in red wine and blood until it achieves a rich, deep flavor that has largely disappeared from modern British dining.

The beer selection reflects the pub's traditional ethos while catering to contemporary tastes, with a range of well-kept real ales alongside more standard lagers and craft options. The wine list is carefully curated to complement the meat-heavy menu, with particular attention paid to robust reds that can stand up to game dishes. The pub also maintains a selection of British gins and spirits, continuing the theme of celebrating domestic produce and traditional beverages.

Smithfield itself is one of London's most atmospheric neighborhoods, where history sits visibly alongside modernity. The area is dominated by the magnificent Victorian ironwork of Smithfield Market, designed by Sir Horace Jones and opened in 1868, which continues to operate as a wholesale meat market in the early morning hours. The neighborhood has a distinctive character shaped by this heritage, with butchers' shops, knife merchants, and traditional cafes that have served market workers for generations operating alongside newer restaurants and bars. St. Bartholomew's Hospital, one of London's oldest, sits just across the street, while the ancient church of St. Bartholomew the Great, founded in 1123, stands nearby as a reminder of the area's medieval roots.

The Museum of London is a short walk away, as is the Barbican Centre, creating an interesting juxtaposition between the old mercantile London of markets and guilds and the cultural and residential developments of the late twentieth century. The proximity to the financial district means that the pub sees a healthy weekday lunch trade of professionals and office workers, while evenings and weekends attract a more diverse crowd of food enthusiasts, locals, and tourists exploring this historic quarter of the city.

The pub's association with the meat trade gives it an authenticity that many London establishments struggle to achieve. Market workers have historically been among its customers, though the changing patterns of the market trade mean this is less common than it once was. The pub doesn't claim any particular literary or celebrity connections, but its appeal lies rather in its role as a proper neighborhood institution that happens to serve exceptional food in a building of considerable architectural merit.

For visitors, the best time to experience The Jugged Hare is arguably during the game season, roughly from autumn through winter, when the menu is at its most distinctive and traditional. Weekday lunchtimes can be busy with the business crowd, so those seeking a more leisurely experience might prefer early evenings or weekends. Sunday roasts are particularly popular and showcase the kitchen's skill with traditional British cooking. The pub can accommodate both casual drinkers stopping in for a pint and diners settling in for a full meal, though booking is advisable for dinner, especially when the weather turns cold and the appeal of hearty game dishes is at its peak.

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